Six of Spain’s finest wines you’ve (probably) never heard of

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The windswept green mountains of the Basque region on Spain’s north Atlantic coastline feel light years away from the country’s stereotypical image of sangria, sherry and sun. Here they make a crisp, tangy white wine called txakoli, which has a slight spritz and in summer goes superbly well with a chilled bowl of gazpacho.
For the adventurous wine lover looking beyond oaky riojas and cut-price cavas, these niche offerings from frequently overlooked regions are gaining momentum. Spain is a vinous powerhouse with more land under vine than any other country and some 600 grape varieties, and we’re seeing more quirky, unfamiliar styles on our high street. Take M&S’s little-known verdil from Valencia (see right) or Waitrose’s Catalonian organic garnatxa blanca (2023 Herencia Altes Benufet, £16.99). The latter combines taut acidity with a nutty finish. To the west, the Somontano region has Burgundy-style whites and fruity reds, while over in Rueda the local verdejo grape produces flavourful, peachy whites. Try Aldi’s 2023 Baron Amarillo Rueda Verdejo (£5.99) or the fresh, citrussy Beronia Rueda Verdejo from Waitrose (£7.99, reduced from £10.99).
It’s not just Spanish whites that are gaining ground. Up in the northwest, the remote region of Bierzo has found a new lease of life under a clutch of illustrious winemakers, including Álvaro Palacios, who are producing excellent reds from the mencia grape. They can take on a smoky, earthy character and pair beautifully with white meat and hard cheese. Here are more of the Spanish wines I am most excited about.
2023 Old Vine Garnacha (14%)Co-op, £6.75Garnacha reigns in the northeast Aragon region, producing intense, potent reds. This is rich and smooth, with cherry and floral flavour.
2023 M&S Found Organic Verdil (12%)M&S, £9Grown on vines at high altitude, the verdil grape delivers lemon zest and dried fruit, giving way to a bracing, pithy finish.
2022 Paso-Primero Blanco Somontano (13.5%)Tanners, £11.95Former Tanners staff Thomas and Emma Holt have crafted a vibrant white with lovely citrus and tropical fruit.
2023 Rezabal Txacoli Getariako Txakolina (11%)The Wine Society, £12.50Rather like a vinho verde, this light, lively white has a gentle spritz and plenty of appley freshness.
2022 CVNE Maruxa Mencia Valdeorras (14%)Majestic, £12.99A characterful mencia brimming with black fruit and floral aromas, this has inviting smokiness and juicy acidity.
2020 Saint Jacques Ultreia Bierzo (13.5%) Justerini & Brooks, £15Here’s a wine of real class from the top maker Raúl Pérez, with peppery dark fruit and a long, silky finish.
2021 Pedra do Cribo Albariño Rias Baixas (12.5%)£18.99This is a sensational albariño from the “Flying Scotsman” Norrel Robertson. Floral hints meld with a steely tang and dry complexity.